Seiko has a deep-rooted history in Japanese tradition, all the while encompassing the latest modern technologies and design virtues of contemporary watchmaking. Originally launched in 2020, Seiko's Presage Sharp Edged Series was perhaps the maison's best portrayal of the marriage of Japanese culture and modern design, meeting in a cohesive and ultimately very appealing way.
Fast forward to 2022, and Seiko has unveiled two brand new Presage Sharp Edged Series models in the references SPB331 and the SPB329. Both models follow a distinct aesthetic, both are made in a very limited run and both are powered by two of Seiko's innate and most capable mechanical movements. The SPB331 is the simpler version of the two, and features a time-only display along with a discreet date window. The model we'll be featuring predominantly is the more complicated reference, the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB329. This Seiko Presage watch is available now at Grahams Jewellers.
Both references pay homage to Kabuki, a form of Japanese theatre that has its roots during the 17th-century Edo period. The enduring longevity of Kabuki is such that even in the 21st century it is still wholly popular and a mainstay in Japanese culture. The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series has been designed in collaboration with Ebizo Ichikawa, one of Japan's most prominent and influential Kabuki actors, ensuring that the traditions of Kabuki remain as true-to-form as possible.
The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series references SPB331 and SPB329 each feature dials that incorporate the Japanese hemp leaf pattern known as Asanoha. This has been used in the fabric of Kabuki costumes since the theatrical art form was created. Interestingly enough, due to the popularity and far-reaching influence of Kabuki actors, the Asanoha pattern continues to be highly favoured in Japanese fashion, culture and design.
The dial has a reddish-brown colour known in Japanese culture as Kakiiro. It is a colour that originated with the Ichikawa family who first used it in their own Kabuki costumes. The Kakiiro colour is as distinct as it is subtle, and features a darker shade near the dial's edges and a lighter shade closer to the dial centre.
With the SPB329's extra complications, its dial has several recessed sub-dial registers in a deep maroon, differentiating against the Kakiiro coloured dial enough to be legible but complimenting the overall colour palette. The SPB329 also features gold-coloured hands and hour markers, also enhancing legibility but again working in unison with the colour palette of that Kakiiro dial.
The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB329 is encased in a stainless steel case that measures 40.20mm across and 12.20mm in thickness. The case features a black coating, enhancing its durability but also working well to keep the Kakiiro dial the focal point of the watch. Impressively the SPB329 has a water-resistant rating of 100 metres, too.
As discussed, the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB329 is the more complicated of the two references, and this is most obvious with the extra sub-dial registers on the dial. Clockwise, we have a day indicator at 3 o'clock, then at the bottom of the dial there is a date indicator, with a power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock which displays the approximate 45-hours' worth of power when fully wound.
Powering the SPB329 is Seiko's calibre 6R21. The 6R21 is an automatic movement with a power reserve of up to 45-hours. It displays the day, date, power reserve, as well as the passing hours, minutes and seconds. This is a decent movement that is made entirely in Japan, is made up of 208 components and does have a hacking seconds mechanism in built, namely to enhance timekeeping accuracy.
The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB329 is a wonderful example of Japanese tradition resonating with modern design, and ultimately is an expression of beautifully discreet details meeting exceptionally sound watchmaking by the folks at Seiko watches.
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